Just like sewing patterns, knitting and crochet patterns feature different garment construction styles that are integral to the finished garment.
So if you’ve been wondering about the different types of sleeve/shoulder construction used in making jumpers, cardigans or tops, here is a quick rundown of the five common shoulder constructions in our knitting patterns...and what each term means!Â
1. Set-In SleeveÂ
The Set-In Sleeve is perhaps the most commonly used construction for making garments like jumpers and cardigans.
The body of the garment includes armhole shaping, and the top of the sleeves is curved to fit the shaped armholes neatly when seamed.
Why choose a Set-in Sleeve Pattern?
This construction provides a close-to-the-body, structured fit that lets the shoulder seams sit naturally at the peak of the shoulder. Flattering and neat, a set-in sleeve will never go out of style! Some patterns with a set-in sleeve: the Rose Eyelet Tee; the Roma Crew or V-Neck Jumper; PT 8663 Kids Cable Jumper
2. Drop Shoulder
A drop shoulder is one of the simplest ways to join sleeves to a garment. There is little or no shaping to the armholes, and the top of each sleeve is a straight/almost straight line.
This means that the shoulder seam is typically below the natural shoulder line (hence the ‘drop’ in the ‘drop shoulder’ name).
Why choose a Drop Shoulder Pattern?
This style is easy to make, without the need for shaping at the shoulder or armholes. This makes it particularly useful for garments with a detailed texture or lace pattern on the body, as it can be a little tricky to keep the pattern correct while shaping armholes or shoulders. A drop shoulder construction gives a more casual feel to garments, and is particularly popular for oversized, slouchy jumpers and cardigans.
Some patterns with a drop shoulder: The Helen Cabled Jumper; PT 8659 Kids Drop Sleeve Jumper; The Andalusian Jumper
3. Saddle Shoulder
A saddle shoulder is another way to add sleeves to a garment, that provides structure and shape along with a striking style.
Similar to a set-in sleeve, the body of the garment is shaped at the armholes. However, the front and back of the garment are not directly seamed together at the shoulder. Instead, the top of each sleeve includes an elongated panel that extends along the top of the front and back panels of the garment.
This panel is seamed to the front and the back separately, forming the shoulder of the garment. The neckband is usually added after seaming.
Why choose a Saddle Shoulder Pattern?
The crisp lines of the shoulder panel provide a roomy but tailored fit around the shoulders, giving the garment a modern, structured look. It’s particularly popular for men’s knits, or for anyone requiring extra space around the shoulders. A saddle shoulder can also look particularly striking when it incorporates a pattern (for example, a long cable design) that extends along the sleeves and shoulders.
Some patterns with a saddle shoulder: PT 8651 Adults Saddle Shoulder JumperÂ
4. Raglan Shoulder/Raglan Sleeve
Popular with all ages, the Raglan Shoulder shares some similarities with both the Set-In Sleeve and the Saddle Shoulder.
Straight seams run from the neckline to the underarm of the garment, joining the diagonal armholes to the angled tops of the sleeves.
Unlike a set-in sleeve, the shaping in a raglan garment is usually straight, rather than curved to the contours of the body. While the diagram shows a seamed raglan, raglan shoulders can also be worked seamlessly in the round, with increases or decreases used to shape the garment along the diagonal lines between armhole and shoulder.
Why choose a Raglan Pattern?
This style has the advantage of being roomy and allowing a great range of movement for the shoulder, while being relatively simple to make. The raglan shaping can be a decorative feature, with an eyelet lace design or the addition of cables, adding interest to your garment. Raglan constructions are also popular for making colour-blocked garments. Using a contrast colour for the sleeves gives a fantastic retro feel that’s popular with kids and teens.
Some patterns with a raglan sleeve: the Macinley Kids Jumper; PT 8576 Cabled Raglan Sleeve Jumper; PT 8549 Classic Raglan Jumper
5. Circular Yoke
A circular yoke is a style of shoulder/sleeve construction with shaping that’s done around the yoke of the garment rather than along a single seam or line for each arm. It’s used mainly in garments worked in the round.
(Note: the ‘yoke’ refers to the top part of the garment, incorporating the neckline, top of sleeves, and top of the front and back of the garment, all the way down to the armholes. It’s the circular section outlined in grey at the top of the diagram).
In a circular yoke, the increases (if working top-down) or decreases (if working bottom-up) are spread around the yoke, either neatly stacked or offset from each other, providing even shaping around the whole garment.
Sometimes, a circular yoke will also include a raglan-style column of shaping stitches closer to the underarm of the garment to improve the fit. Unlike in a true raglan, these stitches don’t reach all the way to the neckline.
Why choose a Circular Yoke Pattern?
This style of shaping is fantastic for garments with a decorative yoke (for example colourwork or lace), allowing you to work detailed designs in the round without being interrupted by seams.
The shaping stitches can be incorporated into colourwork or lace patterns so as to be almost invisible, or they can be used as a decorative feature (for example, an increase/decrease that forms part of a lace pattern).
This shaping is also popular for people who are sensitive to seams.
Because the shaping is spread around the garment, there are no bulky seams to irritate sensitive skin.
Some patterns with a circular yoke: PT 8617 Child's Tee with Circular Yoke; the Caroline Tee Note that different garment patterns may have slightly different constructions for each term – always check your pattern specifically if you’re not sure of how it is constructed.