If you’re a fan of knitting and crochet content on Instagram, Tiktok or Ravelry, you may have heard the term ‘blocking’ a lot recently. Some crafters swear by it, some hate it, and others just don’t get the big deal!
So, what is blocking? Do I need to do it? And what are the different ways you can block, depending on your project?
Read on to learn more about the art and science of blocking, and how it could help you level up your knit & crochet projects.
The Rose Cabled Cardigan, along with some key tools for blocking
What is blocking?
Blocking is a finishing step for your knit or crochet. It can be a fantastic way to make your handmade projects fit and look better, by evening out the appearance of stitches and fabric.
At its core, ‘blocking’ is using a combination of moisture, temperature, shaping and time to help achieve a desired look or finish for your crafted piece.
It has been around for a long time, it just hasn’t always been known by the term 'blocking' by many crafters.
Do I need to block all my projects?
Absolutely not! Many items, especially those that are tightly knit or crocheted and carefully shaped, don’t need to be blocked.
Why block?
Blocking can help your natural-fibre projects to look and fit their best. It helps the strands relax into their natural (or your desired) position...and can deliver the texture and drape you would otherwise only see after an item has been worn and washed a few times.
Blocking is most useful for intricate projects, like lacework, complex shapes, creating uniformity or simply for pieces that need a little tweaking. For example, when you have ‘curled edges’ on your pieces, or you would like to add another centimetre or two.
Blocking your pieces before sewing up can improve the final appearance–with less curling at edges and reduced bulk at seams. You may have noticed this when sewing together a project like a Granny Square blanket...it’s so much easier to join each motif together when they’re neatly aligned, similar shape and sitting flat!
For intricate textured and lace patterns, blocking can give a dramatic effect, relaxing the stitches to better showcase complex textures and define cables. It’s also great for ensuring your colourwork looks neat and crisp.
Blocking can also help even out uneven stitches and tension (to a degree). This is particularly effective with stocking stitch in a solid colour & makes your work look neater!
The Pretty Puff Crochet Scarf being blocked – notice how the puff clusters are more defined and the work is less curled at the edges, allowing the design to be more visible.
Do I need to block every time I wash an item?
You may be worried that you’ll need to repeat this process every time you wash your item! The answer is – not always.
The first block is the most important one. On subsequent washes, you can often just dry the work flat to avoid stretching or sagging and keep your handmade project looking its best.
How to block: three ways to block your work
Some people block their work by soaking it in water, steaming it with an iron or steamer, pinning it out on a foam mat or other surface, or even fitting it to a dressmaker’s model or other 3D form to dry.
Here are three blocking methods we recommend for selected projects.
1. Steam blocking
Using steam (from a garment steamer or an iron) is by far the most popular method of blocking.
It is not as vigorous as wet blocking, but will still help even out your pieces or finished items and, for MOST fibre crafting, will give you a quick and reliable result.
To steam block, lay the work flat and (ideally) pinned on a mat, towel or bed, pulled to the desired shape, and gently apply steam.
If using an iron, you can wet a piece of fabric and place this between the garment and the iron. (This is what we mean when many of our patterns conclude with: Press lightly with a warm iron & damp cloth.)
You may like to use a spray bottle to add extra moisture to your work as you go.
Important: Be sure not to flatten the stitches by touching anything with the iron, as that will reduce the definition and loft in each stitch.
When finished steaming, let the item cool and dry before use.
The Rose Cabled Cardigan, laid flat to steam block
2. Wet blocking
This is used for more vigorous blocking needs, such as with lacework, or when you’re looking to even out a knitted/crocheted fabric’s appearance.
First, place your finished work in a basin or sink of lukewarm (not too hot or too cold) water. You may use a small amount of wool wash or fabric conditioner (or even hair conditioner!) which can soften the work and freshen it up too.
Ensure it’s completely wet – 5-10 minutes is usually enough! - and then drain the water. Without wringing or twisting the item, remove as much water as possible.
Remember, the thicker the yarn, the heavier it will be when wet, so be very careful not to stretch it out too much.
Tip: Try laying it flat on a clean towel, or between two towels, then roll the towel up and standing on it – this will absorb a lot of extra water without stretching your work!
After removing as much water as possible, lay the work flat on a blocking mat or other soft surface that won’t mind being pinned. Special blocking mats exist, but interlocking foam mats from a camping or bargain store are a great and economical option too.
Use stainless steel pins to pin the work flat, ensuring that it meets the desired measurements for the project/piece. There are special blocking pins available (with multiple pins) but dressmakers’ pins will work just fine!
Let the item dry (ideally out of direct sunlight) and then remove the pins.
Tip: We often recommend creating – and washing or wet blocking – a tension square before completing an entire project, so that you have a better idea of the final fabric you’ll be creating and if it will match a pattern’s tension.
The Pretty Puff Crochet Scarf, pinned out to block on foam mats
3. 3D blocking
If you’re making something like a beanie, shaped jumper or a toy, you may want to do a three-dimensional ‘block’! Wet the item, then place it to dry in the appropriate shape. You can use a steamer or an iron if this is safe and desired.
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Beanies: Using a small ball, plastic container, or even a pumpkin or melon can be fantastic for blocking a beanie.
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Tams and beret hats: A dinner plate can help keep the edges of your hat neat and circular without stretching the band.
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Garments: A dressmaker’s model/mannequin is a handy way to block. Ensure that shaping details (like short rows, seams, stacked increases, or other contours) are aligned correctly to the body.
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Specific Shapes: Special ‘sock blockers’ and ‘granny square’ blockers exist for specific items too. If you make these often, you may like to invest in some (or DIY them!) – but otherwise, household items should do the trick!
We hope this has been an informative introduction to blocking! It can be a fantastic way to turn your projects from good to GREAT with just a little bit of time and attention.